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IPM Focus: Best Practices with Exterior Rodent Bait Stations
1 Jul, 2006 By: Larry Pinto Pest Management ProfessionalPest management professionals (PMPs) should go beyond the basics when using tamper-resistant bait stations. Doing so will better protect children, pets, wildlife and domestic animals from exposure to rodenticides. Plus, it will make their baiting programs more effective.
 Larry pinto |
STATION PLACEMENT
Be creative. Don't just install stations every 30 to 50 feet around buildings' perimeters or along fence lines (unless your contracts require it).
Instead, consider the rodents' traffic patterns, areas of attraction and points of entry. Place extra bait stations in areas of high rodent activity (indicated by burrows, tracks, droppings and sightings) — especially near dumpsters and trash cans, where food waste accumulates and rodents may be harboring under thick cover such as low bushes and creeping juniper.
In some areas, you may need to place bait stations unobtrusively to minimize tampering or theft. Install them under bushes, out-of-sight from walkways or hidden under lumber, or use bait boxes disguised as rocks.
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SECURING STRATEGIES
Secure bait stations, especially if they can be reached by children, pets or non-target animals. Make sure the bait can't be shaken out.
To attach a bait station to the ground, use a rod anchor or a Duckbill® earth anchor. Use bolts, screws, industrial strength glue or nails to secure bait stations to wood, concrete or masonry.
For attachment to fences, use chain, wire or plastic cable ties. Attach the stations in two places or make sure the chain or wire is short enough that the station can't be lifted and tilted.
Also anchor your bait inside the stations. Most rodent bait stations come equipped with either vertical or horizontal rods designed to hold bait blocks.
While not mandated by law, there are good reasons to anchor bait blocks inside rodent bait stations. Most importantly, anchoring bait keeps rodents (or other animals or children) from dragging or shaking the bait out of stations and scattering it. Anchoring also keeps the bait fresher and drier since it rests above the station floor. You can even thread rodenticide place packs onto the anchoring rods.
MAINTENANCE
Follow a regular routine when servicing bait stations:
- Carry adequate supplies — Station keys and wrenches, putty knife/scraper, brush, punch for plastic log cards, bait bucket, plastic bag (for old bait), markers/pens, multi-tool (such as a Leatherman® ) and rags.
- Inspect the bait (or monitoring blocks) — Look for evidence of feeding and learn how to determine the culprits (whether they be mice, rats, crickets or slugs).
- Clean the stations — Brush and scrape droppings, crumbs, leaves and other debris out of the units so next inspection any new droppings will tell you the stations are still active.
- Replace bait as needed — Two months is about all you can expect before a bait becomes unpalatable to rodents. You should also replace bait periodically so you can detect evidence of new feeding.
- Be proactive — Relocate bait stations that have gone months without action. Change bait formulations or brands when there's no activity in your bait stations but you know rodents are still active at the site.
- Record your information — Note on each bait station's service record every time you check the station and/or replace bait. Replace log cards/labels when full.
Pinto, Pest Control's IPM columnist, is president of Pinto & Associates in Mechanicsville, Md. He publishes Techletter, a training letter for pest management technicians, and can be reached through the publication's Web site, www.techletter.com.
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